Our 30-hour Falmouth food safari!
Prior to writing this travel review I had visited Falmouth a grand total of five times… and not once did I get to enjoy any of its attractions or amenities.
I was there on business and long days combined with a four-hour round trip ruled out any kind of fun.
And so I was delighted when I was invited for a weekend stay and an opportunity to explore what the town has to offer.
Falmouth in winter is a far cry from the hustle and bustle of summer, yet every bit as beautiful.
The town’s sweeping coastline feels even more dramatic at this time of year, with crisp sea air, rolling waves and wide-open skies that make walks along the harbour or beaches incredibly refreshing
We stayed at the Royal Duchy, one of the very first hotels to pop up in Falmouth back in 1893.
Perched right on the seafront, it quickly became the go-to spot for well-heeled Victorian and Edwardian holidaymakers who’d make the long journey from London on the brand-new Cornwall Railway.
For a time it even went by the name The Hydro, proudly advertising the health benefits of sea bathing – basically the Victorian version of a wellness retreat.
Fast-forward a few decades and the place had a very different role: during the Second World War, American soldiers were stationed here and anti-aircraft guns were set up in the grounds.
You can still spot the base of one of them near the sun terrace, which is a surreal little reminder of the hotel’s past.
Our room was in prime position at the front, with uninterrupted views across the glassy sweep of Falmouth Bay – the kind of view that makes you stop mid-sentence every time you glance at the window.
I have four main requirements for a hotel room:
- Quiet - tick
- Comfortable bed - tick
- Firm pillows - tick
- Powerful shower - tick
As we arrived quite late on a Friday evening we decided to begin our culinary adventure with a meal in the hotel restaurant
Experience has taught me this can be a risky tactic as captive audiences don’t always inspire quality cuisine but, thankfully, on this occasion, we need not have worried.
Starters of scallops and quails eggs were beautifully presented, perfectly cooked and served swiftly.
For my main I ordered a steak (medium rare) and my partner opted for honey roasted chicken, lemon mayo and saute potatoes.
Once again, the kitchen delivered. Generous portions, faultless execution, and genuinely impressive flavours. Even better? The service was some of the best I’ve experienced in a long time – warm, attentive and effortlessly efficient.
In a post-Covid, post-Brexit world where the hospitality sector has been stretched, strained and sadly thinned out, dining out can sometimes feel like a lucky dip. But here, everything just… worked. And it worked brilliantly.
A few hours later we were back down in the restaurant for breakfast following a restful night’s sleep. My full English hit the spot and my partner’s smoked salmon and scrambled egg (yes you’ll note she is a healthier eater than yours truly).
Fit to burst it was time to work off a few calories and so we ventured into Falmouth town centre.
We were blown away by the impressive variety of independent shops in a town that seems to have made supporting local businesses a full-time sport.
Every street, side lane and unexpected corner revealed something new: quirky boutiques, artisan makers, vintage havens, sustainable lifestyle stores and enough foodie temptations to test even the strongest willpower.
What really struck us was the sheer personality of the place. These aren’t cookie-cutter shops you’ve seen a hundred times before.
So many of them felt crafted, curated and cared for, with owners who are genuinely passionate about what they do. One minute you’re browsing handmade jewellery inspired by the Cornish coastline, the next you’re eyeing up small-batch spirits, eco-friendly homeware or a stack of beautifully illustrated books from local authors.
There’s a real sense of pride here – in creativity, in community, and in doing things differently. Falmouth’s independents give the town its soul, and wandering from shop to shop felt less like retail therapy and more like a treasure hunt.
The restaurant scene turned out to be every bit as eclectic and exciting as its indie shops. You can practically eat your way around the world without ever leaving the harbour.
One night you could be tucking into hearty Ukrainian dumplings and rich, comforting stews; the next sampling bold South African flavours with flame-grilled meats and vibrant sides that practically dance off the plate.
However, despite the temptations we opted for a more unusual, some might say sophisticated, dining experience.
The Royal Cornwall Yacht Club may be steeped in more than 150 years of maritime history, but rather than resting on its distinguished heritage,it has opened its restaurant and bar to non-members, inviting locals and visitors alike to enjoy one of Falmouth’s most spectacular waterside settings.
It’s a bold and refreshing move for an institution of its age – and one that pays off the moment you step inside. The atmosphere is warm rather than stuffy, relaxed rather than exclusive. You still get a sense of occasion (the building and views guarantee that), but without any of the formality you might expect from a traditional yacht club.
The restaurant itself feels like a hidden gem: elegant but unfussy, with big windows framing the marina and menus that showcase a thoughtful blend of local produce and classic coastal dishes.
Whether you’re dropping in for a drink on the terrace, settling in for a long lunch or plotting a special evening meal, the team makes you feel genuinely welcome.
In a town full of great dining spots, the Royal Cornwall Yacht Club stands out – not just for its history, but for its willingness to evolve and open its doors wider. It’s the kind of change we’d happily raise a glass to.
The club is an important part of the sailing community in the South West and hosts a variety of summer regattas and racing events. It also has exclusive rights to the prestigious Azores and Back Race (AZAB) which is the only Category 1 ocean race starting and finishing in the UK. The next adventure sets sail in 2027.
Knowing we were heading out for dinner later – and with breakfast still a very recent memory – we decided to play it safe and choose something light. My other half went for the leek and potato soup while I opted for mussels. Simple, gentle, no-risk choices… or so we thought.
But then the dishes arrived.
These were, without exaggeration, the largest ‘light bites’ I’ve ever seen. The soup bowl looked big enough to bathe a small child, and while my mussels were technically listed as a starter, the towering pile of empty shells left behind suggested otherwise. It was the kind of generous portioning that makes you question everything you thought you knew about menu terminology.
Light lunch? Not a chance. Delicious? Absolutely. And a very welcome reminder that Falmouth’s eateries don’t believe in sending anyone away hungry.
Waddling our way back to the hotel, we had a very serious discussion about abandoning dinner altogether. But let’s be honest — what’s a proper weekend break without a little overindulgence? Sometimes you just have to lean into it.
We decided a swim and sauna were in order to loosen our belts — and honestly, it was the best call of the day. The pool was warm and peaceful, the ideal spot to unwind after exploring Falmouth. The cedar sauna took things up a level, delivering that glorious blast of heat that makes you forget you ever felt cold.
There is a fully kitted-out gym, and it looked very professional… but we took one look, exchanged a knowing glance, and agreed telepathically that neither of us could muster the energy to go anywhere near it.
Spa time: 1
Good intentions: 0
A perfectly acceptable outcome.
Our dinner destination was Kona, a Hawaiian-inspired cocktail bar and restaurant that immediately felt like we were a world away from the UK in November.
Luckily for our overstuffed state, their speciality is poke bowls and small plates. A collective sigh of relief was breathed. I went for duck gyozas and Korean BBQ ribs; my partner chose a hot honey shredded chicken bowl. Everything was spot-on. Then the waiter suggested I try an imported Hawaiian golden ale called Big Wave… and he was absolutely right.
Kona’s vibe is infectious. Bright décor, a resident DJ, and staff who genuinely seem to love being there – I honestly can’t remember the last time I ate out and heard so many people laughing and actually enjoying themselves. As we polished off our food, we thanked our lucky stars we didn’t bail.
Before we left, the owner overheard me ordering a bourbon nightcap and wandered over with a recommendation for another one I “had to try.” I wasn’t going to argue. He then proceeded to share his encyclopaedic knowledge of spirits – the perfect end to a night we almost didn’t have.
Fit to burst, we headed back to the hotel for our final night of peaceful sleep. Morning arrived, and with it a surprise: a stream of Lycra-clad runners puffing and panting past our window like some kind of high-energy alarm clock. Feeling mildly guilty, and definitely not ready to join them, we dashed outside to cheer them on.
That’s when we discovered (via the hotel porter) we’d wandered straight into the Falmouth Running Club’s 37th annual Mob Match – a big local showdown where running clubs, gym groups and teams of enthusiastic friends all compete for bragging rights. It’s loud, energetic and full of community spirit, the kind of event that makes you feel part of something even if you’re only cheering from the sidelines.
Watching them power past, I couldn’t help muttering under my breath: “Next year… maybe.”
Falmouth in winter is tranquil, atmospheric and full of small surprises – a coastal escape where you can slow down, reconnect with nature, and enjoy the warmth of a creative, welcoming town. Whether you're planning a weekend getaway or a longer break, it’s the perfect place for a restorative out-of-season adventure.
* Rates at the Royal Duchy Hotel vary throughout the year but the winter rate is from £93.00 per person per night room and breakfast.
